June 11, 2020

Why I’m Old School and Prefer Physical Exfoliation Over Chemical Exfoliation

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Committing to an exfoliating technique is a lot like a good relationship. Sometimes they’ll be messiness, sometimes they’ll be pain, but in the end you’ll come out of it glowing. Deciding on a physical or a chemical exfoliating product is the hardest part.

I have dabbled in the world of BHAs, AHAs, Lactic Acids, newfangled PHAs (which I’m convinced are a made up version of a BHA on a low calorie diet), etc… I just don’t do acids well. I have a very extensive skincare routine and adding in acids can sometimes be tricky when you’re playing around with a lot of different products on your face. Yes, you can rotate every other night what you’re using but acids just aren’t something I’ve ever really committed to. We never had any long term relationship together. As I get older I keep saying to myself that I’ll stop with the physical exfoliation and start going the chemical route but here I am still in a full time relationship with my favorite facial scrubs.

I have to be doing something right even without an acid in my routine as my skin is in excellent condition and I don’t look my age in the least.

I’m more of microdermabrasion-like exfoliating scrub kind of girl myself. One of my favorites is Dr. Denese Firming Facial Microdermabrasion Cream which has a refined cream crystal texture. It’s actually a glycolic acid exfoliating treatment but the amount of acid is very low here. It actually produces the effect of using an acid but you’ll see instantly smoother skin that’s brighter without having to wait for the acid to work.

I personally like using it and other physical exfoliates because I have no visible pores and my skin is drier. I feel like physical exfoliants are a faster way to de-flake drier skin and leave it smoother instantly. I also like I can easily incorporate them into my daily routine without worrying about combining them with other products. There are many other benefits to great exfoliation as well! First off, it’s utterly satisfying to scrub your face and come out of it glowing! It increases cell turnover each time you do it which results in not only smoother skin but a complexion that glows. It also helps your skincare to absorb easily and deeper.

If you’re prone to blackheads, blemishes, etc…I do think chemical exfoliation is the way to go but someone with drier skin without sensitivities there’s a certain convenience being able to easily scrub away my woes.

Do you prefer physical or chemical exfoliation?

Why?

Do share!

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About the Muse

Isabella MuseIsabella is just an average everyday geeky girl who doesn’t blend her eyeshadow correctly, wears too much blush, and hopes she never finds her holy grail products because she likes the thrill of the chase so much. Her mission is to bring you super honest reviews on makeup, skincare, fragrance and all things beauty. She’s in no way an expert on the topic and she sure as hell isn’t a super model. But she’s passionate about makeup and is seeking like-minded individuals that like pina coladas, getting caught in the rain, and ones that enjoy spending hundreds of dollars at Sephora without feeling buyer’s remorse. If you’re that person feel free to reach out and leave a comment or follow me on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and Bloglovin‘.

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Comments

  • Swoozy

    I use both. I realize it can be heretical in skin care circles to say that (I’m not a believer in “microtears”). I have had oily skin, so acids help manage blackheads, but the effect of removed them can cause flakiness, which the physical exfoliant removes.

    • Isabella Muse

      How do switch out? If I’m using an acid I typically limit it to once a week and a scrub every two weeks. Curious minds as I’m always very concerned I’ll overdo it!

      • Swoozy

        My skin is super non-sensitive, so I use mild AHAs/BHAs or a retinol at night. In the morning, if my skin looks dull or flaky, I use a physical exfoliant when I shower, rubbing it as lightly or as firmly as feels good. I’d say I use a physical exfoliant 2-3 times per week, but part of that is psychological as I love how it wakes me up in the morning. My son does this too now that he’s using products to deal with typical teen acne.

        • Isabella Muse

          wow really! I’m always very scared to use an acid and do a scrub the next day. I wait a week and follow up with a scrub! i’m going to try it! maybe my skin is resilient enough to handle it!

  • Michelle

    I have Rosacea. BHA’s are my only option. I’d like to see better produced ones, like at the correct pH, with no irritants included. They’re as rare as hen’s teeth!

    • Isabella Muse

      try PHAs, they might be your bestie! They were created with sensitive skin in mind! 🙂

      • Michelle

        I didn’t know what PHA’s were, so I looked to see what it was. Here’s what I found (maybe others don’t know what they are as well).

        polyhydroxy acid
        Rating: BEST
        Categories: Exfoliant
        Polyhydroxy acids are ingredients such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. They’re supposed to be as effective as AHAs, but less sensitizing.

        Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are chemically and functionally similar to AHAs (such as glycolic acid). The significant difference between them and AHAs is that gluconolactone and lactobionic acid have larger molecular structures, which limits their ability to penetrate the skin, resulting in less potential for sensitizing side-effects. Supposedly, this reduced absorption into the skin does not hamper their effectiveness.

        Does that mean gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are better for your skin than AHAs in the form of glycolic acid or lactic acid? According to an Internet-published class lecture by Dr. Mark G. Rubin, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, research on gluconolactone demonstrated only a “6% decrease in dermal penetration”� in comparison to glycolic acid, which “isn’t a dramatic improvement.”�

        Gluconolactone may be slightly less sensitizing for some skin types, but this isn’t the magic bullet for exfoliation some cosmetics companies have been extolling.

        Polyhydroxy acids can also function as antioxidants and may promote some amount of improvement in skin’s surface strength.

        References for this information:
        Clinics in Dermatology, September-October 2009, pages 495-501
        Cutis, February 2004, Supplement, pages 3-13

        • Isabella Muse

          thanks Michelle! I made the assumption everyone new about all these new PHAs that were popping up! 😀

      • Brandy

        I have sensitive skin with rosacea so it can be tricky finding a chemical exfoliant. I’ve been doing well with Stratia Soft Touch AHA with mandelic acid. It’s not life changing but it’s better than nothing. I’ve tried The Ordinary’s lactic and mandelic acids but broke out too much and made my face look splotchy. I also use Clinique 7 day scrub once a week for a gentle physical exfoliant.

  • Mary Brenner

    I use both chemical and physical exfoliating products on a regular basis, I don’t look my age either and I intend to keep it that way.. with the long hours and stress of working as a nurse lately my skin is looking god awful. I just ordered the Dr. Denese scrub you mentioned here, I need to get my face back in shape.

    • Isabella Muse

      Mary you know you always have my love with you! thank you for your service. Let me know whatcha think! Dr D is my skincare hero!

      • Mary Brenner

        Thank you for those sweet words Isabella ❤️❤️ I will definitely let you know what I think of the scrub ……it’s my first Dr.Dense product!!!!

        • Isabella Muse

          <3! You are so welcome! I can't wait to hear your thoughts!

        • Fabz

          Well I’m glad you wrote about this.
          I’ve always used physical once and week and happy with the results…. Until everyone was hopping on to the chemical version. Everyone had glowy skin and I thought that’s what I need!
          I’ve bought lactic acid as it’s more gentle and don’t use physical, however feel it doesn’t give me that refreshed face. I kind of want to go back to physical but everywhere on the Internet says how it’s bad! :/

  • kjh

    Chemical, primarily BHA, PHA, and enzymes. My skin has been reactive to AHAs in the past 2-3 years. though I do use the occasional wash off scrub, like the Skinfood black sugar. And am definitely charging that clarisonic this w/e. The konjac seems nothing like exfoliation to me.

    • Isabella Muse

      I convinced you to haul out the old clarisonic didn’t I?

      • kjh

        Definitely, my dear. And the skinfood I did yesterday. Got to check the sheet mask stash, though not going to the Asian marketplace for stock-up any time soon. I was liking the Lu Lu Lun line. Have a restful, yet supportive w/e.

        • Isabella Muse

          ugh I am so not a lululun girl! I just can’t get on board with those masks for some reason! You too ;-D

  • Dot

    Chemical, all the way! I used to have a Clarisonic, and it was too harsh for my dry skin”�just made me even dryer. 🙁 (And Lord knows I used that St. Ives apricot scrub for years as a teenager and it probably was wreaking havoc on my skin!) I use retinol and AHAs/PHAs half the week; otherwise it seems too drying (though using DE’s F balm has worked wonders so maybe I’ll ramp it up).

    • Isabella Muse

      ooo no! that stuff is def lethal! needs a warning! If I do use acids I typically limit to once or twice a week!

  • Christina

    Chemical peels for me! I can’t use cleansing brushes or a lot of scrubs because they just hurt my skin. Plus, I like to really turn over my skin, hence I go for pro treatments every month. I don’t look my age at all–confirmed by two different plastic surgeons (no, I wasn’t considering plastic surgery. It was to possibly do surgery on a broken nose. Luckily, I didn’t need it!). I think staying out of the sun and using sun protection is key, though, and Muse, I know you’re like me and hide from the sun. LOL! The peels and scrubs are just extra!

  • Sakura

    I use physical. Chemical usually makes my skin irritated, except for a few products. I still occasionally use the Clarisonic and my favorite scrub is the St. Iced Green Tea one.

  • F1wild

    I have super dry skin and have tried everything – both ways. My absolute favorite is Alba Botanica Even Advanced Even and Bright Sea Enzyme Scrub. Similar to Kate Somerville’s Exfollikate, but I like it much more. Great little tiny granules for light physical, enzymes for light chemical.
    Cheers!

    • Isabella Muse

      I used to love Exfolikate but man that stuff is harsh! I’ll have to try the Bright Sea version!